Introduction
Victorian fashion, which flourished during the reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1901, is renowned for its intricate designs, structural silhouettes, and lavish embellishments. In a society where morality, class, and gender roles were deeply influential, the clothes worn by Victorians were a reflection of their cultural values, personal identity, and social status. What may seem like a period of excess and formality has, in fact, had a profound and lasting influence on modern fashion, inspiring designers, trendsetters, and fashion houses throughout the years.
- Victorian Silhouettes: From Voluminous to Streamlined
The Hourglass Figure
One of the most significant features of Victorian fashion was the emphasis on the hourglass silhouette. This was achieved through the use of garments like the corset, which cinched the waist, and skirts that flared out in wide, voluminous shapes. The crinoline, a stiffened petticoat, and the bustle were worn to add volume to skirts, creating a dramatic effect that emphasized the upper body and created a pronounced contrast between the small waist and the full skirt.
While Victorian silhouettes were dramatic, they have influenced modern fashion, especially in the resurgence of structured pieces. The idea of emphasizing the waist through tailored garments—such as peplum jackets or fit-and-flare dresses—can be traced back to the Victorian love of hourglass shapes. Designers such as Alexander McQueen and Dolce &Gabbana have used corset-inspired elements in their collections, highlighting the form-fitting, structured look that was so central to Victorian fashion.
Even in modern street style, the influence of Victorian silhouettes is evident in the A-line skirts and high-waisted trousers that have made a comeback in recent years. The focus on the waist and the creation of a structured, feminine silhouette remains relevant today.
The Bustle and Voluminous Skirts
In the mid-to-late Victorian period, the bustle came into prominence, replacing the crinoline and offering a more streamlined silhouette at the front of the body while creating volume at the back. This emphasized a fuller rear and continued the trend of exaggerated shapes in women’s fashion.
The bustle reappeared on the runway during the early 21st century, particularly in high fashion collections and couture shows. Designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood have frequently revisited these full, dramatic shapes, either through tailored skirts or through the addition of intricate gathers and pleats. This “revival of the bustle” has often been reinterpreted in more subtle ways, but it undeniably pays homage to the Victorian ideals of femininity and sexual allure.
- Victorian Fabrics and Textures: A Love for Opulence
Lace, Velvet, and Silk
Victorian fashion was characterized by the use of luxurious fabrics such as lace, silk, and velvet, all of which played a central role in the creation of lavish and intricate outfits. These fabrics were often adorned with embroidery, beading, and floral motifs, reflecting a love of detail and opulence that dominated the era.
Today, lace and velvet continue to be widely used in modern fashion, especially in evening wear and couture collections. Lace, with its delicate, romantic appearance, is often incorporated into dresses, blouses, and even accessories like scarves and gloves. Designers such as Chanel, Gucci, and Dior regularly feature lace in their collections, tapping into its Victorian appeal of femininity and refined elegance.
Velvet has made a significant comeback in recent years, appearing on the runways of designers like Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren. Its association with luxury and opulence, paired with modern tailoring techniques, has led to its use in everything from evening gowns to suits, giving contemporary fashion a touch of Victorian grandeur.
Corsetry and Bodices
One of the most defining aspects of Victorian fashion was the corset, a garment that shaped the torso into a tightly cinched, often exaggerated hourglass shape. Corsets were used both as a functional undergarment and as a visible outerwear accessory, with corset dresses and bodices making their way into mainstream fashion.
Corsetry in modern fashion has evolved into a more accessible, stylistic element rather than a necessary undergarment. Designers have embraced corset-inspired designs in contemporary ready-to-wear collections. Kim Kardashian, Madonna, and other influential figures have helped popularize the waist trainer and corset-inspired outfits, which are directly tied to Victorian-style bodices. Modern couturiers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen have frequently referenced Victorian corsets in their works, especially in couture collections.
The use of corsetry in contemporary fashion, while less restrictive, continues to serve as a symbol of femininity, control, and empowerment, making it one of the most enduring elements of Victorian fashion in the present day.
- Victorian Accessories: Gloves, Hats, and Jewelry
Gloves: A Symbol of Elegance and Modesty
Victorians were known for their use of gloves, which were worn by both men and women for reasons of both modesty and elegance. Women’s gloves were often made of fine leather, silk, or lace, and were considered a necessary accessory for polite society. They were frequently worn at social events, including dinners, dances, and formal occasions, and served to emphasize both social class and decorum.
In contemporary fashion, gloves have made a significant comeback, especially in high fashion and couture collections. Gloves, particularly long leather gloves, have appeared on the runways of designers like Chanel, Balenciaga, and Louis Vuitton, where they are used to evoke both elegance and mystery. The revival of gloves in modern fashion is often seen in winter wear, but also in evening wear and street style, indicating that Victorian-era sensibilities of modesty and grace still resonate today.
Hats and Bonnet Revival
Victorian women wore a variety of elaborate hats and bonnets, often decorated with feathers, ribbons, lace, and flowers. These headpieces were integral to the formal attire of the period, signaling both status and femininity. The bonnet in particular was a sign of modesty, while more elaborate headdresses were worn for ceremonial or festive occasions.
In modern times, the influence of Victorian hats and bonnets is evident in wide-brimmed hats and decorative headpieces. Designers such as Philip Treacy and Maison Michel have revived the art of hat-making, drawing inspiration from the Victorian love of ornate detail and structured forms. The use of feathers, lace, and velvet in modern millinery shows how contemporary fashion has embraced the idea of headwear as an important fashion statement—just as it was during the Victorian era.
- Victorian Fashion and Modern Feminism
Reinterpreting Modesty and Femininity
One of the key concepts in Victorian fashion was the notion of modesty—particularly for women. The elaborate dresses, covered arms, and tightly fitted garments were designed to conceal the body and emphasize the moral virtue of the wearer. However, the Victorian era’s obsession with modesty has also been reinterpreted in today’s fashion world.
Many contemporary designers have used the concept of modesty in unexpected ways, blending it with modern feminist ideals. Designers like Rochas, Gucci, and Valentino have incorporated Victorian elements like high collars, high-neck dresses, and long sleeves into their collections to suggest both elegance and empowerment.
The Victorian ideals of femininity—as expressed through dramatic silhouettes and modest attire—are also central to the modest fashion movement, which aims to offer stylish clothing that respects traditional values while allowing for self-expression. Designers in this sphere incorporate elements such as A-line skirts, high necklines, and structured bodices that echo the Victorian era, thus giving rise to a modern interpretation of feminine beauty and modesty.